Saipan Day 5 - Last Command Post, Suicide Cliff, and Grotto

Day 5 - January 2
This was by far the best day we've had on the island. We saw some absolutely amazing things today; including historic WWII sites and a local treasure, the Grotto.

After eating brunch in our room, we headed away from town on our scooters toward the north part of the island. We had heard about some great historic sites out this way and wanted to do some sightseeing before we snorkeled. Our first stops were Banzai Cliff and Suicide Cliff, the sites where many Japanese soldiers and local Saipan people jumped to their deaths after the invasion of the Americans. The Japanese were trying to evade capture and the locals were told that Americans were brutal and would take them as slaves. Hundreds of people committed suicide off these cliffs: soldiers, locals, and even families. Just being there was so moving. You could almost feel the souls of those who died. There are many peace memorials set up there for the Japanese and Koreans (Korea was occupied by Japan at the time and they were forced to fight along side the Japanese). We saw a Japanese family pour milk and throw other items on the memorials, crying over their lost ancestors.

Banzai Cliff

Suicide Cliff

View from Suicide Cliff

View of other bluffs from Suicide Cliff

At the base of the bluffs lies the Last Japanese Command Post, where they fought until the end. When the Americans invaded Saipan, they forced the Japanese to the north. This was their last post before being captured. (There was a group of Japanese soldiers who waged guerrilla warfare on the Americans for 18 months after the battle of Saipan was over, but that's another story.) This bunker was carved into the rock and, from the front, you would have never known it was there. It wasn't until JM climbed up and yelled my name that I knew something super cool was ahead. The Last Command Post was littered with old, dilapidated artillery, including tanks, cannons, and even a torpedo.


Walking up to the Last Command Post

Tank with tree growing in the middle

Torpedo

This is where JM started calling my name







From the front, it looks just like a rock. And then ...

BAM! Secret entry.

Huge bunker on the inside

The walls were blasted in!





Cool window well and bullet holes in the cement

View of the side

After leaving the historic sites, we drove over to the Grotto, a local watering hole where you have to hold onto a rail drilled into the rock to avoid getting swept away by the surge of water that rushes in, before jumping across to a rock island in the middle. From here, you can dive into the grotto and experience underwater caves, etc. We were only snorkelling, so we stuck to the surface and watched all the fish moving with the tide. But you could see the caves, even from the surface. It made me want to get my diving licence so bad! Apparently turtles and sharks are common here at 5am. Luckily for us, we were definitely not awake at 5am.

Video of the Grotto
(We didn't go get life jackets - some locals helped us across and then we braved it and jumped in!)

After this we made our last stop for the day. More snorkelling at Paupau Beach! Here we got to see clownfish (think Nemo), some unique coral, and GIANT star fish. I'm talking over 1 ft. wide. At first, I was like, 'what is that purple thing?' - then I my heart started racing and I got really excited/nervous. It was so huge. Then I found 2 more. All in all, it was a very pleasant day full of history and adventure!

With love from Saipan,

Team JMS

Cute fishies!

Giant starfish

Clownfish

Map of Saipan with our northern tour highlighted